Provençal Bouillabaisse

Bouillabaisse is the Provençal fish stew that originated from the port city of Marseille, the oldest city in France founded in 600 BC by the Greeks. Marseille is the second largest French city after Paris, but every French village seems to have a different way of preparing and serving Bouillabaisse, which is traditionally served with toast rounds cut from baguettes and spread with rouille. The prep time is 20 mins, cooking time is 30 mins, the stew serves 6 to 8.

Provençal Bouillabaisse

1/3 pint of olive oil

2 onions chopped

2 leeks trimmed and chopped

3 tomatoes skinned seeded and chopped

4 garlic cloves crushed

1 sprig of fennel

1 sprig of thyme

1 bay leaf

1/3 c finely chopped Italian parsley--have additional for garnish

1 strip of orange peel without pith

1 ½ lbs shell fish; crab, mussels, clams, large prawns, lobster. Discard any shellfish that don't open when cooked.

5 lbs of firm fish, like cod, sea bass, swordfish, halibut, red snapper, and a softer fish like sole so that some of the fish

breaks down in the broth. Make certain all the fish is very fresh.

4 pinches of saffron powder

3 ½ pints of boiling water

sea salt and pepper to taste

In a 8-quart dutch oven sauté the onions, leeks, chopped tomatoes and garlic over low heat for 2 to 3 mins until soft.

Stir in the fennel. thyme, bay leaf, Italian parsley and orange peel.

Add the shellfish, boiling water and sea salt and pepper.

Turn up the heat to a slow boil for about 3 mins.

Reduce the heat and add the fish. Continue cooking for 12 to 15 mins over a medium heat.

The fish should be opaque and tender but still firm, once cooked adjust the seasoning.

Stir in the saffron and serve with rouille and toast rounds cut from baguettes


Rouille

1 small red pepper

2 garlic cloves crushed

pinch of saffron powder

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 ozs crust less white bread

2 egg yolks

8 fl ozs olive oil

Cut the pepper in half and remove core and seeds chop into small pieces and crush to a paste with the garlic.

Add the saffron, salt and pepper to taste.

Moisten the bread with a little water. Work it into the pepper and garlic.

Beat in the egg yolks and add the oil a little at a time. Beating well between each addition.

As the rouille becomes thick pour the oil in a thin steady stream.

Continue beating until the rouille is thick and smooth. Makes about one cup.

France Invades California

With simpatico passions for food and wine culture, education and the arts, technology and the environment~it was a fait accompli before San Francisco and Paris formalized their Sister Cities partnership in 1996.

San Francisco’s French ambiance is displayed in Beaux-Arts architecture, French films, its French café culture, and the Golden State has French companies to thank for over 60,000 jobs. In Paris, the 7e arrondissment is known as ‘Little America.’ But even given the long-standing mutual love affair the influx of hundreds of French business start-ups in California in the past 18-months, and hundreds of others arriving to study business opportunities had me wondering what sparked the Gaulic invasion.

Undoubtedly, the global economy and strength of the Euro last year were factors. And the affinity that Mayor Gavin Newsom of San Francisco and Paris Mayor Bertrand Delanoë share for economic, cultural, technology and environmental collaboration also invites exchange. In Paris, Mayor Newsom tested the popular ‘Vélib’ bike-sharing program and rode the high-speed ‘TGV’ train between Paris and Reims. Back home in San Francisco he instituted a shared bike program and advocated for a high-speed rail system between San Francisco and Los Angeles.

During Mayor Delanoë’s Bay Area junket highlights included tours of Google's headquarters and George Lucas' Digital Arts Center. Perhaps his emphasis on technology influenced our les amis who are finding the Silicon Valley/SF high tech entrepreneurial sector most alluring. They are being squired about on GeekTrip tours, and are appearing at tech showcases.

Whatever the latest attraction—the French have been strong partners in Northern California for many years--including in the wine industry. It’s delightful to have even more of them here and if they spill anything it’s champagne—not oil. Viva la France!

French Lingerie Lust

What is the je ne sais quoi that makes the ‘way français’ synonymous with svelte and sexy? In a word: Lingerie. French femmes are either dispersing 20-percent of their wardrobe budget on scanties from Soleil et Sucre, Aubade, Etam, Simone Perele, and Chantelle; or lingering at lingerie storefronts to ‘faire du lèche-vitrines.’ Their love of beautiful presentation starts with lavish care for their epidermis from childhood. They dress beautifully and simply from the under layer out, eat delicious fresh foods in spare quantities, walk everywhere, and never forget they are sensual, feminine, feline creatures.

The Inherent Magic of France

It’s impressive that our Milky Way is 100,000 light years wide (a light year being 6-trillion miles), one of 200-300 galaxies in the universe, and that 90-billion humans have lived in the last 10,000 years. People are moved by the things of the heart, but facts can elicit emotions—and these translate existence into why I am moving to France.

France is the world’s 6th largest economy. And with about 80% of the landmass of Texas it’s by far the most visited nation on Earth. Each year, 82-million pilgrims arrive in the nation of 64-million citizens. What do they seek?

With borders on Andorra, Belgium, Germany, Italy, Luxembourg, Monaco, Spain, Switzerland and the Mediterranean, Atlantic, and the North Sea Straights of Dover/English Channel—France is set like a jewel at the heart of Europe. Even the tallest peak in Europe--Mont Blanc—stands in the French Alps like a beacon to her national glory.

With history that dates back to ancient Celtic, Greek and Roman eras—France has the #1 health care system, one of the highest longevity rates, as well as the #1 quality of life on the planet. Five-week vacations and shorter work hours than other nations allow French citizens to savor their legendary culture, food and wine where presentation is the ultimate art form.

The nation saved by 18-year old Joan of Arc is also personified officially by the Marianne. On the flag of Paris is the ship of Isis—Goddess of Magic, and on the Arc de Triomphe is her star.

France, as Audrey Hepburn said in one of her roles, is for “…changing your outlook. For throwing open the windows and letting in La Vie en Rose.” France is a Woman, and like the Milky Way, a realm of mystery, beauty, creativity, and light. And with a quality of heart often emptied from life and the world today: Magic.

One of Largest Flash-Mob Parties in the World

The identity of the organizers and party location is Top Secret. The required permits are not obtained. No printed invitations are sent in the mail. Yet, the elegant annual Paris flash-mob ‘Diner en Blanc’ has been successfully staged in June for approximately 20-years. Public sites seized for the grand event have included: Invalides—the location of Napoleon’s Tomb. The Place du Palais Royal—in front of the French president’s resident. Before Notre Dame, and the Arc de Triomphe.

The flash-mob of 10,000 all dressed in white receive SMS’s that advise them where and when to meet a bus, or at which Metro station to gather with their folding tables, chairs, and table-settings. Then minutes before the appointed hour further directives advise them where to converge from all points, en masse.

When the police vans show-up blue lights whirling and sirens wailing--beautifully outfitted guests hop onto chair seats and flutter white napkins in the air. The authorities are flummoxed. Food and wine are the true religion of France. It would be un-French to stop the flow of French champagne, to halt the partaking of sublime French food, and manhandle 10,000 acolytes doing what the French best do. Quelle PR nightmare!

Around 11PM thousands of golden sparklers glitter against black night to bring the soirée to a gallant close. The French are celebrating being truly free. Taking back their streets for a spring fete. Where else could that occur without police in riot gear coming to 'party-hearty' with tear gas and tasers?

Yet another reason to move to France! See the YouTube videos: 2010 2009 Viva la France!

My First Week When I Move to France

The above images are from Paris Perfect Apartments owned by a Stanford University Business School graduate who concentrates her rentals in the 7th arrondissment of Paris--‘Little America’ where I plan to stay for a year when I relocate to France and before moving down to Aix-en-Provence--three hours away on the TGV.

While I've loved living in Santa Barbara, San Francisco and Carmel--I'm excited by the prospect of following in the footsteps of other American expats like: Jackie Bouvier who studied at the Sorbonne before marrying JFK. Grace Kelly who quit acting to marry her Monaco prince. Angelina Jolie who relocated to the South of France home to raise their children in honor of her deceased French mother. Julia Child who became ‘The French Chef’ as a result of her life in France. And my own son who studied in France, became a citizen, and remained in Europe.

I'll be devoting my blog and articles to the process that will lead to a first week in Paris to include: hugging my son at the airport. Getting together with Paris friends and fellow expat bloggers for champagne. And walking a Golden Retriever named Jack along the Seine. Doesn't that sound fun? Stay tuned...

Paris Perfect

The 7th arrondissement in Paris is where Bemelmans set his famous 'Madeline' series. It is also known as 'Little America' and the foodie district--especially along Rue Cler and Rue St-Dominique. I associate it with fabulous turn-key apartment rentals owned and decorated by a Stanford Business School graduate and her surgeon husband. If I could--I'd move into one tomorrow--and am working toward that goal. Enjoy her terrific site: Paris Perfect

France's First Lady L'Amoureuse

Most know that First Lady of France, Carla Bruni, was born in Italy to a wealthy family, was raised in France and became a supermodel. She is also an accomplished guitarist and singer. Am addicted to her song L'amoureuse ...but prefer her rendition of it live on Barbara Walters to the version on her album. I listen to it repeatedly while exercising so that by now know all the lyrics. Enjoy: L'amoureuse

Mona Lisa in Camelot

In December 1999, Jacqueline Kennedy was selected in a Gallup Poll as #12 of the most 18 admired people of the 20th century. The list also included JFK.

Besides being a champion horsewoman and a champion of the arts--Jackie was an exceptional writer, editor, painter, and instrumental in passing historic preservation laws. She wrote the first ever White House Guidebook that in turn raised millions of dollars to fund the Office of the White House Curator--created at her behest--and she helped save historic Lafayette Square across from the White House, Grand Central Station in NYC, and the 15th c BC Temple of Dendur built for the Goddess Isis; which was subsequently given to the US by Egypt in gratitude to Jackie. It is on permanent display at MoMA in NYC and was among 1,000s of ancient temples and objects rescued with Jackie's assistance that would have otherwise been lost to flooding from the Aswan Dam construction.

I just read 'Mona Lisa in Camelot' about how Jackie was the force behind the Mona Lisa's historic visit to America--including the obstacles overcome, the logistics and security required, the impact on millions of Americans that braved winter weather to stand on line for hours to view France's most prized artwork.

Margaret Leslie Davis' small jewel of a book unintentionally draws sharp contrast between the glory days of the Kennedy Administration and all that has followed. And like Thomas Hoving's 'Making the Mummies Dance' ...provides an intriguing peak inside the politics and passions of the museum and art world. Fascinating!

In The Pink & Over the Rainbow

The above images are from Absolutely Beautiful Things and French Essence. Vicki Archer is the Australian author of the book 'French Essence' and lives Saint Remy de Provence--not far from Aix-en-Provence. Pink has the magic to alter moods, as does

'Somewhere Over The Rainbow' by Eva Cassidy.

Cheap Paris Chic

Les 3 Marches de Catherine B

1, rue Guisarde - 75006 Paris –in Saint-Germain-des-Pres. (lots of Chanel bags)

Reciproque is the largest luxury consignment store

8-123, rue de la Pompe, in the 16th arrondissement a short walk from Métro Rue de la Pompe.

Catherine Max is another large outlet in the 16th at

17 Ave. Raymond Poincare', Paris 75116

Dépôt-Vente

6, rue de Bourbon-le-Château

75006 Paris

Aix-en-Provence Hotels

Villa Gallici--pictured above--is a four-star Relais et Châteaux ultra luxury hide-away tucked into a lush hillside setting: 18 Avenue de la Violette 13100 Aix-en-Provence 04 42 23 29 23.

Hôtel des Augustins 3 rue de la Masse, 04.42.27.28.59. This charming old hotel was a 15th-century convent.

Hôtel Cardinal 24 rue Cardinal, 04.42.38.32.30. Small and cozy in the Mazarin quarter.

Hôtel Les Quatre Dauphins 24 rue Roux Alphéran, 04.42.38.16.39. In the Mazarin quarter, very small but reasonably priced.

Light & Delicious Coconut Macaroons

This is a desert French women would love. It's simple to make, light and delicious, and not filled with flour or fattening, artificial ingredients. Put a few in a baggie in your purse for an afternoon tea break. Then sit outside and enjoy the spring. Perfect.

14 ounces sweetened shredded coconut

14 ounces sweetened condensed milk

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

(the original recipe does not call for almond flavoring but I add it, too.)

2 extra-large egg whites, at room temperature

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

Combine the coconut, condensed milk, and vanilla in a large bowl. Whip the egg whites and salt on high speed in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment until they make medium-firm peaks. Carefully fold the egg whites into the coconut mixture.

Drop the batter onto sheet pans lined with parchment paper using either a 1 3/4-inch diameter ice cream scoop, or two teaspoons. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until golden brown. Cool and serve. Makes 20-22 cookies. Enjoy!

E-Books Like Wine and Flowers

With its $359. Kindle E-book reader, Amazon dominates the lucrative E-book universe, selling more electronic than standard books off its own site, and 70% of E-books overall.Mega-authors like J.K. Rowlings that net $1.50 royalties from every $25. hardcover sold--could earn 70% royalty on $10. E-books to pocket a $7.00 vs. $1.50 profit. A $5.5 million dollar difference on every million books sold. Not only can more books be sold online like flowers or wine—the product is immediately deliverable, and decouples the author and investors from local and national economies. For example: South African boutique winery Stormhoek is becoming a leading wine in West Texas thru maxi social-media savvy, and mini capital. Wine, books, flowers are among the very best things in life. I'm seeking one or two equity partners to participate in my own book project. If interested~please email.

Provençale Olive Tart

Provençale stables are Soupe au Pistou, Daube Provençale, Aïoli, Pieds-paquets Marseillais, oil cake and tarts. South of France cuisine utilizes thyme, oregano, sarriette, rosemary, fennel and farigoulette, garlic, mint, olive oil, basil, onion. tomatoes, courgettes, aubergines, and sweet peppers paired with seafood, lamb or game, and Provence wines.

Each day vendors gather beneath the colorful canvas umbrellas chatting with locals, tourists, and chefs and helping them select the finest of local ingredients--for instance to make this popular tart.

Provençale Olive Tart

Pastry Ingredients:

2 cups and 3 Tbsp of unbleached all-purpose flour

Pinch of sea salt

3/4 cup unsalted butter, cold and cut in 1/4-inch cubes

-1 large egg yolk. beaten

3 to 4 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

Filling Ingredients:

2 large eggs

3 Tbs crème fraiche

1/4 cup olive oil

2 small onions thinly sliced

1 lb arugula cut in ½ inch strips

2 ½ t. garlic, finely chopped

1/2 tsp finely chopped fresh thyme

3/4 cup pitted Kalamata olives, cut in half if large

1/4 tsp sea slat

1/8 tsp freshly ground black pepper

6 to 8 oven-roasted tomatoes, cut in half

Pastry Prep:

Place the flour, salt, butter, egg yolk and 3 T oil in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until it comes together. Add the extra tablespoon of oil if necessary. Form the dough into a flattened disc, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for 30-minutes.

Roll the dough between 2 pieces of parchment paper or plastic wrap into a rough 15-inch circle. Pat the dough evenly into the bottom and sides of a 12-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom. Chill for at least 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 400F.

Filling Prep:

Whisk the eggs and crème fraiche in a bowl. Add the oil and onions to a large cold skillet and heat over medium-high heat. Saute until the onions are soft but not about 10 to 12 minutes. Add the arugula, garlic and thyme. Cook until the greens are slightly wilted and the pan is almost dry, about 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the olives, eggs mixture, salt and pepper. Immediately pour into the tart shell, making sure the olives are evenly distributed. Brush the exposed crust with a little olive oil.

Bake for 50 minutes or until the filling is just set in the centre. Remove from the oven and let cool for 15 minutes. Top with oven-roasted tomatoes.

France in San Francisco

Russian Hill was my first neighborhood in San Francisco. I hiked up and down the 'Crooked Road' part of Lombard Street in high heels while carrying grocery bags enough times to feel kinship with Tenzing Norgay--the sherpa who scaled Mt. Everest with Edmund Hillary in 1953. The Hyde Street Cable Car pictured above is about to reach the top of Lombard Street, a regular stop. Heading west down Lombard a few blocks brings you to La Folie restaurant on Polk Avenue with a traditional French menu that features California and French wines.

La Folie & B-Cellars:

La Folie's owner/chef is Roland Passott, one of the top five or so chefs in Northern California. When my son was completing his French degree at USF and heading for Paris for graduate school, he interned at La Folie with Chef Passott. And I often spotted former Kennedy White House chef Rene Verdon in the neighborhood. He and Roland Passott are great friends together with Fleur de Lys chef Hubert Keller and Ritz-Carlton executive chef Jean-Pierre Dubray. They even share holidays together. Imagine that table--we mortals can only dream.

La Folie (along with many five-star restaurants, resort hotels and country clubs) pours B-Cellars blends. In 2005, B-Cellars' Kirk Venge was selected as one of the Top 20 new wine makers in the world by Food and Wine Magazine, and in 2009 the Washington Examiner gave B-Cellars A+ on their wines. Jim Borsack and Duffy Keys co-own the brand. Duffy was very kind to me when my brother died, and sent me a selection of their spectacular wines. They are attractively priced, elegantly boxed and excellent for gifts. Jim has a collection of his recipes on their site--I made the following to accompany the 2005 Blend 24, a luscious blend of Cabernet and Syrah with dark fruit and Herbs de Provence notes that paired wonderfully with Jim's dish:

Spicy Spaghetti with Chorizo:

2 boneless chicken breasts diced

1 teaspoon onion powder

1 teaspoon cumin

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon dry mustard

1 teaspoon dry garlic powder

Salt and pepper to taste

2 tablespoon olive oil

1 pound bulk chorizo or three links of chorizo sausage casings removed

12 peeled and deveined shrimp

11/2 cups heavy cream

½ teaspoon hot sauce

2 cans of tomato with their sauce (Jim's recipe doesn't specify can size. I used a 16 oz can and added about 4 chopped fresh tomatoes, too.)

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

1 pound dried fettuccine

1 bunch of chopped chives

Combine the onion powder and the next six ingredients in a bowl. Dredge chicken breast in the spices. Over medium hot heat warm the olive oil. Cook chicken in a large pan flipping once until most cooked through. Remove chicken. In the same pan add chorizo and cook for approx. 8-10 minutes again until sausage is mostly cooked through. Add the chicken back to the pan along with the dry ingredients that did not stick to chicken. Add the two cans of tomatoes and bring to a simmer. Cook for approx six minutes. Add the heavy cream and the shrimp and the hot sauce and cook for approx. five more minutes. Cook the pasta according to the package in a large salted pot. Drain the pasta and add to the chorizo and tomatoes. Top with the grated Parmesan and chives. Enjoy!

Wine and Food Pairings Guide

I set my novel ‘French Heart’ on wineries in Aix-en-Provence and Santa Barbara, which further fueled my love of French and California wines-and respect for winemakers.

Here’s a guide for pairing wines. The ultimate expert on what appeals to you—is you.

Food and Wine Pairing Guide:

Appetizers: If based in artichokes or shrimp try a crisp Sauvignon Blanc, Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé. Asparagus works with a herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc. Champagne is a natural with caviar, Pinot Noir with smoked salmon or rumaki. Match foie gras with white or red Burgundy, Gewurztraminers, Pinot Gris, Rieslings, or Sauternes. With sharp English type cheeses and Cheddars: Dry reds, Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlots. Port and Stilton are a lovely combo. With Swiss, Gruyere, and equivalent: Pinot Noir. For Blue cheeses: Sauternes, dry reds or sherries. Creamy cheeses like Camembert and Brie are delicious with buttery rich Chardonnay or Champagne. Goat's milk cheese with Sauvignon Blanc. Parmigiano Reggiano, Romano and similar hard cheeses work with dry reds.

Meats and BBQ: Pare well with a quintessentially American Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Beaujolais, Shiraz, or Grenache. Barbecued beef and pork also work with Tempranillo-based wines like a Rioja. Dry rosés compliment barbecued chicken. Grilled steak is a natural for big, fruity reds, Argentine malbec and Bandol is also good with grilled meats. Roast beef is delicious with tannic reds like Bordeaux, Cabernet, and Merlots, Syrah, Shiraz or Rhones. Lamb is a classic match with red Bordeaux, Burgundies, Rhones, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot or Syrah, Shiraz, or Rioja. Roasted chicken works with Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc and Riesling. If you are making a tomato/cheese entree like chicken cacciatore pair it with a dry red.

Pork and Chicken: Think richer Chardonnays, Pinot Blanc, Alsatian Riesling, Gewurztraminer, and lighter-styled Pinot Noir. Roast pork pairs well with Pomerol, St-Émilion, Sangiovese or Zinfandel.

Asian food: is often matched with Gewurztraminer. If the dish is duck based try Pinot Noir, and a Cabernet with stir-fry beef dishes, or a rich Chardonnay if the dish is seafood based. Châteauneuf-du-Pape marries well with Chinese spices like hoisin sauce.

Roasted Duck: A California cabernet sauvignon., or a Côte-Rôtie if citrus and herbs like tarragon and thyme are used in the dish. If duck is prepared with orange or peach based sauces try Sauternes. Grilled duck breast prepared in the Provencal manner is best with French Médoc, Pomerol, Madiran, Corbières, or a California cabernet sauvignon.

Seafood: Try a big Chardonnay with lobster, and Champagne with lobster salads. Sancerre and Muscadet are suited to oysters. Shrimp works with crisp whites like White Bordeaux and Sauvignon Blanc. Riesling is a nice mate with crab. Try White Vinho verde or the classic match of Hermitage blanc with grilled or fried scallops. For scallops in cream sauces try Grand cru Chablis, Graves and rich chardonnays

Salmon: Pinot noir, riesling, white Burgundy with subtly prepared salmon like poached or in papillotes. Understated rosés work but not with cream sauces.

Salade Niçoise: Provence rosé. For other salads match them to the main ingredient as above.

Provençale Roasted Chicken with Olives

A staple of Provençale cooking is rich, roasted chicken fragrant with garlic, pancetta, olives, white wine and herbs. And following this in the next post is recipe for a tomato tart, which can be made the day ahead, and pairs well with this chicken. Perhaps rent Ridley Scott's 'A Good Year' prepare the chicken and tomato tart, and be transported to a charming way of life in a heart-stopping area of the world.

Provençale Roasted Chicken:

6-7 pounds of chicken pieces, breast, thigh, legs, etc.

1/4 cup good quality olive oil

1 1/2 tablespoons of chopped fresh thyme

1 1/2 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary

1 tablespoon sea salt

1 scant teaspoon red-pepper flakes

15-large garlic cloves, peeled

3 thick slices of pancetta cut into 1-inch pieces

1-cup dry white wine

30 oil cured kalamata olives

Instructions:

Preheat oven to 450°F, position the rack in the center of the oven. Place the chicken pieces, oil and spices in a large bowl and press the mixture into the chicken to coat.

Arrange chicken pieces, skin side up, in 1 layer in a 17-by 11-inch 4-sided sheet pan, scrap the bowl of any seasoning onto the chicken. Scatter the garlic and pancetta pieces over the chicken and roast about 20- minutes. Drizzle the dry white wine over chicken and roast 10 more minutes. Scatter olives over chicken and roast until golden brown and the chicken is thoroughly cooked, approximately 20 minutes more.

Spring in Carmel~Spanish Bay~and on the Monterey Coast

Spring on the Monterey Coast, in the Del Monte Forest and Pacific Grove means all the purple 'Pride of Madeira' in bloom, baby deer on the golf courses with their mothers, and blankets of pink flowering ice plants along the beach wPacific Grove. You can walk the coast from Spanish Bay in Pebble Beach (middle picture above) thru Asilomar Beach and Pacific Grove to downtown Monterey, the former seat of California's Spanish Capital. I've done it many times--it's gorgeous and historic. Did you know that the Monterey Bay is 13-miles across and 6,000 feet deep? It is a uniquely observed marine habitat in the world. The Monterey Bay Aquarium is a marvel. See it: HERE.

Romantic Dinner for Two

Perhaps you can't stroll around Montmartre, admire the city lights from the top of the Eiffel Tower, stop to taste fresh oysters, glide over the Seine on the Bateaux-Mouches or stay in the Hotel Costes. But pop open the bubbly, put on the Piaf, and make this dinner from Gwyneth Paltrow's Goop site ...and you'll find it's almost like being there on a romantic trip for two.

Fried Oysters with Curried Crème Fraîche

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 shallot, very finely minced

1/8 teaspoon curry powder

1/3 cup champagne

1/3 cup crème fraîche

8 oysters

1/2 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

peanut oil for frying

1 tablespoon caviar (optional)

Heat the olive oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the shallot and cook until just softened. Add the curry and cook for another minute. Add the champagne, bring to a boil, lower the heat and simmer until reduced by half, about three minutes. Stir in the crème fraîche and keep warm over a low flame.

Steam the oysters for five minutes. Use a butter knife, shuck them open, drain out the juice and remove the oysters from their shells (use the knife to separate them from the abductor muscle) reserve the oysters and their rounded shells. Rinse and dry the shells.

Pour enough peanut oil in a skillet to cover it by ¼" (about a cup in a medium skillet). Heat over a medium flame. Dredge the oysters in the flour. Test the temperature of the oil with a drop of water or a pinch of flour – it should sizzle on contact. Fry the oysters in the hot oil for about a minute on each side, or until golden brown and crispy. Drain on paper towels.Put a spoonful of the crème fraîche sauce into each shell, top with a crispy oyster and a small spoonful of caviar if you wish.

Roasted Game Hens and Potatoes

2 Cornish hens

coarse salt

1 lemon

1 clove finely minced garlic

1 tablespoon butter, softened

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

freshly ground black pepper

a dozen small creamer potatoes

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/2 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme

Preheat the oven to 400°F (on convection if possible). Rub each hen with coarse salt and rinse under cold water. Pat dry with paper towels. Grate the zest from the lemon. Reserve the lemon. Make a paste of the zest, 3/4 of the minced garlic, the butter, salt, and a few grinds of coarse pepper. Using your fingertips, separate the skin from the breast of each hen and massage half of the butter mixture under the skin of each bird.

Steam the potatoes for 7-minutes. Cut them in half and toss in a roasting pan with the olive oil and a pinch of coarse salt and pepper. Lay the hens on top. Cut the reserved lemon in half and squeeze the juice over the birds then place the halves inside the cavities. Sprinkle the birds with black pepper and a pinch of coarse salt. Roast for 40 minutes, or until browned and cooked through to 180°F on a thermometer in the thickest part of the thigh). Remove to a plate. Toss potatoes with the thyme, return to the oven and roast for an additional five minutes or until crispy. Toss the potatoes with the remaining minced garlic and serve.

Steamed Artichokes with Aioli

2 artichokes, trimmed

1/2 cup mayonnaise or Veganaise (the only substitute that tastes good)

1 clove garlic, crushed

1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice (about 1/4 of a juicy lemon)

pinch of coarse sea salt

a generous tablespoon of thinly sliced basil

Steam the artichokes for about 45 minutes or until they give little resistance when you pierce them with a paring knife. Mix the rest of the ingredients together in a bowl. Let the artichokes cool a bit and serve them with the aioli. To eat, peel off each leaf, swipe it through the aioli, scrape it with your teeth and repeat over and over. When you get to the heart, remove the sharp thistle and enjoy the best part of the artichoke.

Molten Chocolate Cakes




1 1/2 tablespoons butter, plus more for the ramekins

1 1/2 oz. chocolate

1 egg, plus 1 egg yolk

1/2 cup confectioners’ sugar, plus 1 teaspoon 0. 2 1/2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

3 tablespoons crème fraîche

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Preheat the oven to 450°F. Generously butter two 4 oz. ramekins. Melt the butter and chocolate together in a small glass bowl set over a small pot of simmering water. Let it cool a bit while you whisk together the egg, egg yolk and 1/2 cup of confectioners’ sugar in a separate bowl. Whisk in the melted butter and chocolate and then the flour.

Fill the ramekins and bake for seven minutes. The edges and top should be just set. Meanwhile, whisk the crème fraîche together with the remaining teaspoon of confectioners’ sugar and the vanilla. Remove the cakes from the oven, let them cool for a few minutes. Invert onto dessert plates and serve each with a spoonful of crème fraîche.